Approximately 39 hours ago, the Husband and I returned home after a month long holiday in southern Africa. We were sleep deprived after travelling for about 26 hours (flight delays in Johannesburg and then Sydney added to the length of the trip), and our bodies are still about 8-9 hours out of sync with their location! (A ten hour time difference, when experts say it takes about a day per hour to adjust, causes some mighty jet-lag.) I’m not sure why we do this – we often travel in May, then return for the bulk of the winter. And right now it is cold and rainy outside. But we are still buzzing from the awesome trip we had.
I have many gbs of photos to trawl through, although I did quite a lot of that while I was away, posting on Fbk and Instagram (where you can find me as (at)travellingmali). Cameras with wifi, phones that take great pics themselves, and Snapseed, my favourite photo editing app on my phone, allowed me to edit photos very quickly and upload them. I tried to be restrained. I was, actually! And I was buoyed too by the fact that so many people seemed to enjoy them. I’d just followed (on social media) my sister-in-law who had travelled to several countries in Europe, and loved seeing her pics. Maybe it’s because of covid. After four years, we have been starved of international travel, whether that is in person, or virtual vicarious travel following our friends and family.
I’ll write more about it here, with some photos too. I’ll try to supplement the photos with the stories behind them, so those who’ve seen the pics won’t get too bored! But first, I need to back them all up!
We were paranoid before we left about catching covid. One country insisted on seeing vaccination certificates, one experience (a four day train trip) also insisted on a covid declaration before boarding, and even required us to agree they could tell us to get off at any time. The last thing we wanted was to get it a few days before flying. But we’re home now, did a test last night, and we’re both fine. We ate in a lot of restaurants – many were open air, but many too were enclosed, because there was a bitter cold snap in Cape Town and the winelands. Most of our activities were outdoors, and so risk was low. We barely wore masks, except on flights and in airports. It was lovely to feel such freedom – I even forgot sometimes that masks were still a thing!
We heard some sad tales about covid in South Africa and Zimbabwe – family members lost, herbal remedies being pushed to vulnerable people, and the extreme difficulties that it caused in the tourism industry. Things are picking up now for them all, and I hope that they will continue to recover.
I was of course reminded again how lucky we are. In Zimbabwe, the unemployment rate is over 70%. Yet without fail, the people there welcomed us, were the friendliest, happiest people I’ve seen working in tourism anywhere. Even the woman doing airport security checks was singing happily! Yet inflation is so high, everything seemed to be priced in US dollars (which did not work in our favour).
In South Africa it is better, but still high. They have, of course, the inevitable immigrants from Zimbabwe looking for work, as well as locals. We had an engaging taxi driver (twice) who had moved from Zimbabwe, and informed us of his hopes to leave Africa, maybe move to Australia to work there. There are people advertising their skills (plumbing, electricians, labourers etc) at particular points on the roadside, hoping for casual day work. Life is not easy.
Then there are the power blackouts, known as load-shedding. We drove into Johannesburg one evening at rush hour – around 6 pm – when the power was out. No traffic lights in parts of the city of around 8 million people (if you include Pretoria, it goes up to over 14 million)! Whilst we were largely unaffected – hotels, restaurants, safari lodges, and even winery cottages had generators or solar power or both – the local population find it difficult. Three times a day they lose power for up to four hours each time. We experienced it one night at a guesthouse. The power was out when we arrived, so even the doorbell didn’t work (and the security gate was unlocked). It went out again at 11 pm, supposed to come on about 1 am, but didn’t until after 3 am. It was hot, and of course there were no fans or air-conditioning or lights. Our room had an oil lamp. It was like going back to the 1800s. Local people find it difficult too. They have to cook when the power is on, so that they have something to eat at mealtimes when the power is off. They can’t store food in refrigerators, so have to shop almost daily. That means they can’t buy in bulk, can’t buy when products are cheap and store them, can’t even store fresh milk when the temperatures are high. It gets very expensive for them. (Update: Almost as soon as I published this, there was an announcement that load-shedding may start to reduce. I hope that will be a reality for them.)
Finally, South Africa is both a great tourism destination, and a difficult place to be. We were constantly aware that we were the privileged white people, served by the local indigenous Africans. We were so aware of apartheid and its hangover, I wondered how white South Africans feel there. They take their privilege for granted, for example they talk about the ready availability of “services” which to us simply meant cheap, exploited, labour. (Though as travellers, we too appreciated the ability to get our washing done in bulk at local laundries.) We felt less comfortable in a town we love in the wine region when we noticed the poor housing areas creeping up the hills behind it. Yet we equally felt like country bumpkins in an upmarket hotel in Johannesburg before we left. We were in our safari gear, having flown in from Kruger Park, and were surrounded by the elegant dressers, wealthy shoppers, and the clearly burgeoning middle and upper-middle classes of local Africans. I hope that means there is hope for South Africa. They have a wonderful country, filled with natural resources, amazing landscapes and animals, and talented and committed people. If you ever get the chance, go. You won’t regret it.
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